Posts in Travel
Provence: Karma or Coincidence

Menu Board Outside Le Bistro du Paradou "Some spots are the cradle of genius, Provence is one." --Lawrence Durrell. Locals have always known it. Provence's magic, like a magnet, draws many types of people to its charming countryside and ensuing lifestyle. There amongst the markets, cobblestone roads, bistros, shops, and restaurants, look closely and be observant. You might see your favorite author, fashion czar, cookbook writer, painter, actor, director, Michelin-star chef, celebrity, winemaker, photographer, and the list goes on.

Sandwiched Between Princess Caroline's Cars

"A Royal Encounter" When we visited Provence our first year we had tried to eat at Le Bistro du Paradou, a wonderful country bistro full of Provencal charm, however, we were too late for lunch and too early for dinner. Mireille and Jean-Louis Pons' country bistro is one of famed restaurant critic and cookbook writer, Patricia Wells' favorites in Provence. Well, it was worth a second try on our second trip, and we were successful in experiencing an incredible lunch. Everyone shares the same house table menu, choice of house wines, and gracious service.

After lunch, I pulled Jean-Louis Pons aside, and asked him a few questions, and thanked him for such a lovely lunch. He proceeded to tell me, "That it is afternoons like this, when Princess Caroline of Monaco and her husband come, I am especially pleased. She comes every spring, and is sitting there now at the table under the window." Can a jaw drop to your knees? Mine did. She was facing me across the room, surrounded by an entourage of people at her table who had floated into the bistro unnoticed. I looked at her for a long time, so I might forever keep her vision that day in my memory.

Wait, there is more. Once out in the parking lot, we notice our rental car entirely blocked. My husband asks me to go back to the bistro and find out whose car it is. Fate beckons us, and it is none other than Princess Caroline's pristine 1959 Deux Cheveux. Mon Dieu! First comes the waiter to help move the car, second comes someone from her table, and third comes Princess Caroline herself, speaking in perfect English, and apologizing profusely.

As we slowly left Le Bistro du Paradou moving on with our afternoon, I thought to myself, "Wow, this magic of Provence is intoxicating!" Le Bistro du Paradou, 57 avenue de la Vallee-des-Baux. Le Pradou. (tel) and (fax) (0)4-90-54-32-70. Closed Sunday. I recommend calling for hours, menu of the day, and reservations.

"Meeting My Heroine" After playing bumper cars with Princess Caroline of Monaco, we didn't think our visit in Provence could get any better. Little did we know that there was much more excitement to come. I first saw her book in the travel section of a bookstore about three or four years ago. Her book is, Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France. I was not familiar with Kristin Espinasse before or her writing, but immediately enjoyed her wonderful and endearing stories, woven with humor about her husband, children, cultures, and antics of Provencal every day life, and not so every day life.

Kristin's book actually morphed from her popular "thrice-weekly" blog, www.french-word-a-day.typepad.com/ . Kristin's blog is wildly amusing, and a fun way to stay in touch with your "inner French language", and Provencal fix. Kristin is my heroine, because she lives and breathes the authentic Provencal life every day, and gladly shares it with all of us through her wonderful words and stories.

Kristin is an American, and as she pens it, "a former desert rat from Arizona", who meets her husband to be in Provence during a foreign language exchange program. She falls in love with this handsome Frenchman Jean-Marc, marries, and has two adorable children. They live in Provence, and have followed one more of their dreams, owning a farm house, vineyards, and making award-winning wines in the Lower Rhone Valley.

Once again by incredible luck and unusual circumstances, my husband and I are enjoying a private tour of some of the local wine producers in the lower Rhone Valley, by one of the leading wine consultants in the area. Half way up the long gravel driveway of Jean-Marc and Kristin Espinasse, I realize we are visiting Domaine Rouge-Bleu, their winery and vineyard. I'm pinching myself thinking I can't take any more of these surprises. A quick introduction and visit with Jean-Marc and Kristin, a quick tour of their winery, a taste of their wine, results in a lifetime of memories.

Kristin is just as warm and friendly in person, as she is in her writing. She encouraged me to start a blog. I am so grateful and thankful for her kindness. Sometimes you meet people along the journey of life that touch your lives in so many ways, and they might not ever know. Thank you Jean-Marc and Kristin for touching our lives. We hope our paths will cross once again.

Provence: Gardens & Louisa Jones

Abbaye St.-Andre Gardens, Near Avignon Louisa Jones, a Canadian, who has lived and gardened in Provence for over twenty years has become known as the English-speaking voice on Provence gardens. A prolific writer on French gardens, click on Louisa Jones' Books.

One of her favorite gardens in Provence is Abbaye St.-Andre. Pictured here is its wonderful pergola with banksia roses and wisteria. The garden was created in the 1920's, on the steep hillside of a Benedictine abbey, on a hilltop opposite the city of Avignon. Other wonderful elements of this garden are an olive orchard, a prizewinning formal rose garden, idyllic romantic statues, and incredible views of the Rhone Valley. The best way to find this garden is to contact the Villaneuve-les-Avignons, Tourist Office, (tel) (0)4-90-25-61-33.

Domaine Dalmeran, St. Etienne-du-Gres

For those of you who can't get enough of Louisa Jones' garden books, and would like to experience wonderful Provencal gardens first hand, Louisa offers "Garden Week in Provence". Every year, the third week of April, she takes up to 16 very lucky people on her special garden tour. Louisa partners with the famous Mirande Hotel in Avignon, and escorts you through six full days of private family style gardens, well-known designer gardens, and classic Provence gardens, many of which are not open to the public. Besides the escorted garden tours, the tour includes a cooking class, visits to the local markets, and a general emphasis on food and lifestyle enjoyment. Each year Louisa Jones plans a new itinerary, with new gardens. Her "Garden Week in Provence" is very popular and limited in size. Please visit www.louisajones.fr for more information on her, and her garden tour week.

Pictured above is Domaine Dalmeran, a beautiful chateau and winery, complete with 18th century picturesque landscaping and Roman aqueduct ruins. This storybook chateau was featured on one of Louisa Jones' tours a few years back. In our travels last year, my husband and I had the opportunity to visit Domaine Dalmeran, tour, and taste their wine. New English owners were renovating the chateau, winery, and building a cooking school. Domaine Dalmeran, avenue Notre-Dame-du-Chateau, St. Etienne-du-Gres, (tel) (0)4 90-49-04-04.

Provence: Roman Marvels Endure

Self-Photo at Roman Pont du Gard

This Roman aqueduct, Pont du Gard, has stood the test of time for more than 2,000 years and ticking. How utterly unbelievable. Although the Pont du Gard attracts over 1 million visitors a year, with nary a person in sight, we had to resort to a self-photo. The Pont du Guard was built to transport water across the Gardon River Valley, starting at a spring outside Uzes nearly 30 miles away, to the Roman city of Nimes. The Pont du Guard consists of three levels, the top one was where water was transported, and the first level actually was used as a road. It is estimated that it took 800-1,000 workers about three years to construct it. There was no mortar used in building this engineering masterpiece.

Roman Pont Julien, Near Bonnieux

Pont Julien is a small three-arched perfectly preserved Roman bridge, tucked away in the valley floor, just before the rising hilltop village of Bonnieux. It is also more than 2,000 years old, and up until 1995 was still used for traffic. Since then a new bridge has been constructed next to it. Pont Julien was named after the family of Julius Caesar. It was part of the ancient Roman trade road that linked the Alps to the Pyrenees, through the south of Gaul.

Secret Roman Ruins Outside of Aix-en-Provence

If you are intrigued by the Romans and their influence on Provence, create a "Romans in Provence" itinerary visiting Nimes, Arles, Vaison-la Romaine, Orange, Saint-Remy, to name a few places to get you started. Some Roman marvels are well known, and some are much less known. You simply happen upon them along your travels.

Provence: Outdoor Cafes

Lunch time in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue With New Friend

Outdoor cafes and restaurants are virtually a way of life and extremely important for socializing with friends and beasts. Some friends are invited and some just make their way to your table. You hardly can go wrong, taking in a moment to yourself, a refreshment, a possible bite to eat, and a chance to catch up with your day.

Cafe Time in Aix-en-Provence

Take a beautiful outdoor cafe, mix in a bit of sunshine and fresh air, add a steaming cup of espresso, and viola, your day is made.

One of the most beautiful and impressive places to sit in a cafe and experience the "cafe life" is on Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence. It is often called the Avenue des Champs-Elysees of the south. This grand boulevard with its massive plane trees and ancient moss-covered trickling fountains was first laid out in 1651. Nearly 400 years later, it still is a wonderful boulevard to sit at an outdoor cafe, and just experience life. I suggest the famous cafe, Le Deux Garcons towards the top of the grand boulevard.

Provence Markets "Spice Up Your Life"

Spice Vendor, Lourmarin Friday Market, Provence

The photo above is of the lively Friday morning market in Lourmarin, also the village where famed English author, Peter Mayle, who wrote A Year in Provence and other novels, calls home.

One of my very favorite things to do when traveling is to frequent the local markets. As a matter of fact, I plan my itinerary around the flea markets, antique markets, fresh produce markets, bird markets, flower markets, etc. Markets are so colorful, and give you a real slice of local people, life, culture, and ambience. Markets are very lively and the vendors often very outgoing and playful types.

Markets are a way of life, especially in Provence, France. Locals shop frequently for fresh ingredients and produce, rather then once a week or every two weeks. The markets are held different days in different villages, and often specialize in certain items. Usually a guidebook, or articles on a particular market will divulge which "must have" items to seek out. Also, the month you are traveling may determine what is in season, and what to purchase. In Provence, cherries are a delectable treat in May, and lavender is in full bloom in July.

One of the "must have" items for me, are spices. I love to collect and buy spices whenever I travel. Each country has their cuisine and flavors, and what better way to relive your trip and experiences then making their local dishes and recipes, with local spices you have purchased there. Spices are easy to pack, and usually have a long shelf life. Spices are a small splurge, and a small effort to take home for memorable times long after your trip. They also make wonderful, reasonable gifts for loved ones, and especially for those who like to cook.

Produce Is Elevated To Art Form

In Provence, its wonderful markets are brimming with Provence cheese, black olive tapenades, lavender honey, flowers, olive oils, wonderful hand-made sausage, local crafts, colorful Provence linens, hand-made pottery, delightful breads, and seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables. When you are here, take advantage of these incredible foods and flavors and experience Provence. You must pick up some famous "Herbes de Provence" which usually consists of dried thyme, basil, savory, fennel, and lavender.

Provence outdoor markets are a treat for all of your senses with colors, aromas, tastes, and people-watching. Some of my favorite markets in Provence are the Tuesday: Vaison-la Romaine, Thursday: Nyons, Saturday: Apt, Sunday: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

"Postcards From Provence"

Magic of Provence, Red Poppies Blooming in May

I am not an expert on Provence, France, but I have studied, researched, and created two wonderful 2007 and 2008 spring itineraries that my husband, John, and I followed to experience the heart and soul of Provence. There is something so magical about Provence, it reaches to my very core. I snapped the above photo, roadside on an early Sunday morning, heading to the famous and fabulous L'lsle-sur-la-Sorgue antique market.

It is hard to pinpoint why Provence is so special. Is it the light that Van Gough would talk about and try and capture in his paintings? Is it the Roman influence of ancient engineering masterpieces, roads, and villages that survive to tell their story? Is it the legendary "mistral wind" that bellows through the famous Cote du Rhone valley? Is it the unspoiled rural countryside beauty? Is it the absolutely charming people full of rich tradition and culture? Is it the incredibly fresh and mouth-watering seasonal foods and time-proven wines? Is it the fact that you never know who you will run into at a cafe, or bump elbows with at an outdoor market? Ah, you will just have to go sometime and ponder these questions yourself. If you have been to Provence, and have some wonderful stories, please share.

Writing about a few things that makes Provence so magical a place is difficult. I could jot down a long detailed list, but prefer instead to share with you a few snapshots, that those fortunate to call Provence their home experience on a regular basis, if not daily.

Generally, my itineraries are "off the tourist beaten path", preferring to visit the lesser known special places, such as Edith Mezard's tiny linen and embroidery shop in Lumieres, the Abbaye St. Andre gardens across the river from the popular city, Avignon, or the little cheese shop, Lou Canesteou, in Vaison-la-Romaine, to name a few. Rick Steves' Provence and The French Riviera 2009 is a good guidebook for general information, tips, and proven itineraries for those wanting a starting point.

Some of my favorite books written about Provence, were the catalyst to visit this special part of France, and experience it first hand. If you can't get to Provence in the near future, perhaps you would like to begin by reading some of these wonderful books. For more information on these books, just "click" on their titles. A Good Year. A Pig in Provence: Good Food and Simple Pleasures in the South of France.A Year in Provence.Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France.

Please follow along with me for more snapshots of Provence.

Christmas Time in Paris

Christmas Time in Paris, Petite Lane off Rue Saint Honore Have you ever had the desire to be somewhere entirely different other than snuggled at home for Christmas? It would have to be some place spectacular. It would have to be some place so beautiful, your life would be transformed for a few days, and it's memory would last a lifetime. It would have to be some place so magical, you could forgo your traditional holiday just once, in return for an unforgettable time. Chances are you could bring your loved one(s) with you, too, be it your beloved husband, sweet children, close mom, or cherished friend. Have you thought about visiting Paris at Christmas time?

Paris, one of the most beautiful and elegant cities of the world, especially sparkles at Christmas time. Trees lining both sides of the Champs D'Elysee are lit up with tiny white lights the entire length from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triumph. The Eiffel Tower is a shimmering tower of sparkle, just like a Christmas tree. Everywhere it is decorated. The large department stores on blvd. Haussmann have magnificent Christmas window displays which can entice you for hours. The design couture houses like Dior, Chanel, Pierre Cardin, and others window showcase elegant evening attire for the holiday season. Paris can be dusted with a light snow at Christmas time, but more often it is a bit chilly and windy. It is a very joyous time to be in Paris.

Whether it is your first time to Paris, or you've stopped counting, you can customize your own itinerary. There is a Paris for art lovers, history buffs, heavy-duty shoppers, children, jazz fans, foodies, or should I say, Paris has something for everyone. For those of you who do not travel with an intinerary, just being in Paris, and experiencing it by simply walking along the Seine, exploring little streets, window shopping, people watching, or reading in a nearby cafe, is enough to be moved.

For almost 15 centuries, the French have celebrated Christmas. It is celebrated throughout France, like no other holiday. It is celebrated in slightly different ways and traditions amongst it's different regions. If you are traveling to France during the holidays, read up on some of their fascinating Christmas customs, songs, traditions, stories such as "The Three Masses" by Alphonse Daudet, "The Little Juggler" legend, and for us gardeners, "The Christmas Rose" legend.

There are over 300 churches in Paris alone. Christmas Eve begins with midnight Masses. After Mass, Parisians head home, or to a favorite restaurant for one of their grandest meals of the year, the jubilant "reveillon" to feast over many courses with friends and families. It is a very festive dinner and similiar to our New Year's Eve celebration. It is also the night that French children go to sleep, and anxiously wait for slender Pere Noel (Father Christmas) and his donkey to come and fill their shoes with gifts placed near their hearth or Christmas tree.

Some Christmas tidbits or gifts ideas, that I would like to share with you while you are in Paris:

1) Angelina Tea Salon for the "best hot chocolate" in the world. While you are there, you must further indulge and have a piece of their Mont Blanc cake, made with chestnut puree and cream. 226 Rue de Rivoli, Metro: Tuileries.

2) Maille Mustard. Place de Madeleine. Metro: Madeleine. Fabulous retail location for the famous 200+ year old mustard company. You can buy it fresh from their spicket (keg), or any of their packaged "mustard du jour" selections. Makes a great gift. Caution, there are long lines during the holidays. Place de Madeleine is a foodie's paradise. Besides, Maille Mustard there are specialty shops for truffles, caviar, and handmade chocolates close by.

3) Catherine, a fabulous discount duty-free store for perfume, make up, and beauty products. 7 rue Castilgione, Metro: Concorde. Small shop with lots of charm, and personal help in finding your next "sensational" perfume.

4) Louvre Museum Gift Shop. We all know about the Musee du Louvre art museum, but don't overlook their fabulous gift shop, especially around the holidays. There is even a separate gift shop for children full of puzzles, games, and fun things. 99 rue de Rivoli, Metro: Palais Royal, Musee du Louvre.

5) Hotel Ambassador's Lobby Art Deco Bar. Wonderful hotel and lobby bar with origins from the 1920's, beautifully restored in 2002. Great place to rendez-vous, or relax with a glass of French champagne after a hard day shopping the grand department stores along blvd. Haussman. 16, blvd. Haussmann. Metro: Chausee d'Antin or Richelieu Drout.

Joyeux Noel, everyone! Perhaps you will consider Paris at Chrismas time next year.

(I apologize for not being able to put in accents, etc on the French words. I do not have a French keyboard).

Napa in November

Early Morning, Highway 29 Storybook Napa Valley is a perfect time of year to visit in November. The hustle bustle of harvest time is over. The grapes have begun their journey from juice to fermentation to barrel. The grapevines are turning beautiful fall colors and preparing to drop their leaves and go dormant for the winter. It is a slower pace, and the locals seem to be catching their breath. Highway 29 (St. Helena Highway), the two lane highway which runs North to South through the heart of Napa Valley can seem downright desolate.

I like to stay in Rutherford, off of Highway 29, located in about the middle of the valley at Rancho Caymus at 1140 Rutherford Rd., Rutherford, CA 94573 (tel) (800) 695-8284. www.ranchocaymus.com. It is an Early Spanish California style B&B with 26 rooms/suites which open to an enchanting outdoor garden courtyard.

There are so many wonderful and interesting vineyards and wineries in the immediate area, it is really hard to narrow which ones to visit. I will give you three of my favorites, for three very garden-related reasons:

1) Peju Province Vineyard is a stone's throw from the Rancho Caymus, south on Highway 29. It is like stepping into the French countryside with it's Mediterranean-style garden and, and curved Sycamore trees welcoming you to it's French Provincial tasting room. Tony Peju was a commercial landscape designer with a nursery and flower business in Los Angeles, before he and his wife, Herta, relocated in 1982 to Rutherford on 30 acres, and created their winery and surrounding garden. Peju Province is open daily 10am-6pm, 8466 St. Helena Highway, (707) 963-3600, www.pejuprovince.com.

2) Cakebread Cellars is a little further south on Highway 29 from Peju Province Vineyard. Jack and Dolores Cakebread since 1973, have been one of the most creative and successful winery families in Napa Valley. Delores is famous for her huge organic kitchen garden, which is to the left of the wine tasting entrance. All tastings and tours are by prior appointment. Cakebread Cellars, 8300 St. Helena Highway, (800) 588-0298, www.cakebread.com.

3) Shafer Vineyards is tucked away over on the Silverado Trail in the Stags Leap District, so you will have to head east and cross over the valley floor to the other side of Napa Valley. All tastings are by prior appointment (I recommend inquiring at least a month in advance), and give you specific directions to their winery at that time. John Shafer, Founder, and his son, Doug Shafer, President, and Elias Fernandez, Winemaker are the individuals responsible for Shafer Vineyards becoming "one of the world's greatest wineries", according to Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Not only is Shafer Vineyard's wine outstanding, but their organic practices are too! They are 100% solar powered, reuse and recycle their own water, encourage owls and hawks in their ecosystem, plant cover crops for the health of their vines, and are continuing to lead in the forefront of sustainable agriculture. www.shafervineyards.com

Favorite Breakfast: Gordon's Cafe & Wine Bar, 6770 Washington St. Yountville, CA 94599, (707) 944-8246. Favorite Lunch: Oakville Grocery Napa Valley, www.oakvillegrocery.com, (707) 944-8802. Favorite Dinner: Bouchon Bistro, 6534 Washington St., Yountville, www.bouchonbistro.com, (707) 944-8037.