Posts in Travel
Provence Markets "Spice Up Your Life"

Spice Vendor, Lourmarin Friday Market, Provence

The photo above is of the lively Friday morning market in Lourmarin, also the village where famed English author, Peter Mayle, who wrote A Year in Provence and other novels, calls home.

One of my very favorite things to do when traveling is to frequent the local markets. As a matter of fact, I plan my itinerary around the flea markets, antique markets, fresh produce markets, bird markets, flower markets, etc. Markets are so colorful, and give you a real slice of local people, life, culture, and ambience. Markets are very lively and the vendors often very outgoing and playful types.

Markets are a way of life, especially in Provence, France. Locals shop frequently for fresh ingredients and produce, rather then once a week or every two weeks. The markets are held different days in different villages, and often specialize in certain items. Usually a guidebook, or articles on a particular market will divulge which "must have" items to seek out. Also, the month you are traveling may determine what is in season, and what to purchase. In Provence, cherries are a delectable treat in May, and lavender is in full bloom in July.

One of the "must have" items for me, are spices. I love to collect and buy spices whenever I travel. Each country has their cuisine and flavors, and what better way to relive your trip and experiences then making their local dishes and recipes, with local spices you have purchased there. Spices are easy to pack, and usually have a long shelf life. Spices are a small splurge, and a small effort to take home for memorable times long after your trip. They also make wonderful, reasonable gifts for loved ones, and especially for those who like to cook.

Produce Is Elevated To Art Form

In Provence, its wonderful markets are brimming with Provence cheese, black olive tapenades, lavender honey, flowers, olive oils, wonderful hand-made sausage, local crafts, colorful Provence linens, hand-made pottery, delightful breads, and seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables. When you are here, take advantage of these incredible foods and flavors and experience Provence. You must pick up some famous "Herbes de Provence" which usually consists of dried thyme, basil, savory, fennel, and lavender.

Provence outdoor markets are a treat for all of your senses with colors, aromas, tastes, and people-watching. Some of my favorite markets in Provence are the Tuesday: Vaison-la Romaine, Thursday: Nyons, Saturday: Apt, Sunday: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Provence: Beautiful Plane Trees

Plane Trees In Cucuron

One does not travel and explore Provence, especially if you are a gardener, without noticing its beautiful and awed plane trees. Plane trees are found everywhere in Provence. They line its country roads, often approaching and leaving a town or village. They are a focal point in many a family's courtyard, providing umbrella-like shade, and a spot to place an inviting outdoor table. They are often strategically planted in village centers and town squares. They can create a majestic and impressive grand boulevard style in their maturity and beautiful foliage.

Plane trees are the type of tree, in maturity, that create their own environment. They can reach 100 feet tall or more. Plane trees can be shaped and groomed into a variety of shapes, and provide welcome shade, especially in the warmer months of the year. Plane trees were planted prolifically, because they were a durable tree to population pollution, grew quickly, provided excellent shade, looked beautiful, required little water, and could be planted in poor soil.

Provence plane trees are a hybrid of the Asian and American sycamore trees. They were created, quite by accident out of Oxford, England in the 16th century. In the 19th century, plane trees were imported to Southern France, and planted extensively. Napoleon was responsible for extensive planting of plane trees throughout Southern France, for the purpose of keeping his marching army cool, under their great green canopies.

Tops of Plane Trees In Gigondas

Wouldn't it be wonderful to live in a region, like Provence, where plane trees are so prolific, so enduring, and so much a part of the charming character of the countryside. Plane trees are yet another reason, why the Provence countryside is so endearing.

Provence: Rural Countryside & Villages

Lower Rhone Valley and Town of Sablet

Provence is so large and diverse, it really is hard to describe it all. When traveling by car, one is often fooled by the distance and time it takes to get around. Although there are some highways, a lot of the roads, are secondary roads which meander and wind through the small villages, towns, and countryside. In fact, "the mode" of getting around Provence seems to support the relaxed tempo of life here.

Approaching the Medieval Village of Gordes

In the Luberon region of Provence, the large regional Luberon Park protects the countryside from random development and preserves its wonderful valley floors and rising Luberon foothill views.

The wind can be a factor in Provence. There are actually several winds which occur in this region. The mistral, probably the best known, originates in Siberia and barrels towards Provence through the Cote du Rhone valley, sometimes with violent force and sometimes for days. During a mistral wind, everyone has a favorite legendary "mistral story" to tell.

Overlooking The Village of Bonnieux

Many of the hillside villages are from medieval times, and some started as Roman beginnings, when that was the best way to defend yourself from invaders. Often well-preserved, and with commanding views, these villages have wonderful bistros, weekly markets, honey-stone churches to explore, village tradition, artisan crafts, and lively local culture to take in.

Provence is soothing and peaceful visually. How can you not be moved looking out at its verdant quilted patchwork countryside, gentle rising foothills, valley floors, and vast blue horizon, seemingly untouched for centuries. Incredibly, you can still experience fields of happy sunflowers, acres of scented lavender, flocks of sheep migrating, producing olive groves, and noteworthy vineyards, as part of normal everyday Provencal life.

Springtime in Provence, when these photos were taken, show how simply beautiful the countryside is. Much of the landscape in spring consists of budding vineyards, gnarled mature olive trees, towering cypress, blossoming fruit trees, climbing roses, blooming wisteria, and the dramatic red poppy in mass.

Have you been to Provence in the spring? What is your favorite memory?

"Postcards From Provence"

Magic of Provence, Red Poppies Blooming in May

This fall 2023, I have the opportunity to travel to the south of France and Paris with a dear friend. While I am away, I thought it would be fun to revisit some of my previous Provence blog posts and photos for you as an armchair traveler. You can also follow me on Instagram to catch my fall adventures.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

 

I am not an expert on Provence, France, but I have studied, researched, and created two wonderful 2007 and 2008 spring itineraries that my husband, John, and I followed to experience the heart and soul of Provence. There is something so magical about Provence, it reaches to my very core. I snapped the above photo, roadside on an early Sunday morning, heading to the famous and fabulous L'lsle-sur-la-Sorgue antique market.

It is hard to pinpoint why Provence is so special. Is it the light that Van Gough would talk about and try and capture in his paintings? Is it the Roman influence of ancient engineering masterpieces, roads, and villages that survive to tell their story? Is it the legendary "mistral wind" that bellows through the famous Cote du Rhone valley? Is it the unspoiled rural countryside beauty? Is it the absolutely charming people full of rich tradition and culture? Is it the incredibly fresh and mouth-watering seasonal foods and time-proven wines? Is it the fact that you never know who you will run into at a cafe, or bump elbows with at an outdoor market? Ah, you will just have to go sometime and ponder these questions yourself. If you have been to Provence, and have some wonderful stories, please share.

Writing about a few things that makes Provence so magical a place is difficult. I could jot down a long detailed list, but prefer instead to share with you a few snapshots, that those fortunate to call Provence their home experience on a regular basis, if not daily.

Generally, my itineraries are "off the tourist beaten path", preferring to visit the lesser known special places, such as Edith Mezard's tiny linen and embroidery shop in Lumieres, the Abbaye St. Andre gardens across the river from the popular city, Avignon, or the little cheese shop, Lou Canesteou, in Vaison-la-Romaine, to name a few. Rick Steves' Provence and The French Riviera 2009 is a good guidebook for general information, tips, and proven itineraries for those wanting a starting point.

Some of my favorite books written about Provence, were the catalyst to visit this special part of France, and experience it first hand. If you can't get to Provence in the near future, perhaps you would like to begin by reading some of these wonderful books. For more information on these books, just "click" on their titles. A Good Year. A Pig in Provence: Good Food and Simple Pleasures in the South of France.A Year in Provence.Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France.

Please follow along with me for more snapshots of Provence.

Strawberries On A Stick
Strawberries on a Stick, Barcelona

Strawberries on a Stick at Mercado de La Boqueria, Barcelona, Spain

On a recent trip to Barcelona, Spain, strolling through the famous covered Mercado de La Boqueria, I spotted these “Strawberries on a Stick,” and thought what a clever idea and presentation. A simple variation on chocolate-dipped strawberries. A simple summer dessert when strawberries are in season.

Purchase 12” bamboo skewers. Purchase large sweet whole strawberries, and your chocolates. Melt dark chocolate in a microwave or double boiler, and pour into zip lock bag. Snipe a small corner. Keep the green top on your first strawberry. Add your other strawberries without greens to the skewer. Over parchment paper drizzle the chocolate around each strawberry while rotating the skewer. You might want to enlist a willing helper to hold and rotate the skewer as you drizzle. Place upright to set your chocolate. Repeat with white chocolate.

The Market de la Boqueria is a market, yes, and also a place to grab lunch or a snack for locals and visitors to enjoy. Many of the market vendors have “ready to go” items which are delicious and easy to eat as you stroll around. Next time you are in Barcelona, the Market de la Boqueria in the Las Ramblas neighborhood is a must stop.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

Rose Mania in France
Smelling  the roses in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze

Stopping To Smell The Roses in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze, Provence, France, Photo by Debbie McGowan

The French love their roses, just like they love their dogs. May is a perfect month to catch France in full bloom and especially the stunning peaking roses that adorn their front homes, gardens, and stone walls. A On a recent trip I tried to capture some of these beautiful roses to share with you all.

I couldn’t identify many of them, but I did see quite a few of the traditional Eden, and Pink Eden. Enjoy these photos, and let them take you to France a moment!

Climbing Red Rose in Siran, Languedoc

The Village of Siran in Languedoc, France

 
Welcoming Roses Greet You at a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Welcoming Roses Greet You at a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
Matching Eden Roses Adorn House Front in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Matching Eden Roses Adorn the Front of a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
A Fairy Tale Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

A Fairy Tale Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
Never Mellow Yellow for a Village Home in Trausse, Languedoc

Never Mellow Yellow for a Village Home in Trausse, Languedoc

 
A Beauty in a Garden in Uzès

A Beauty in a Garden in Uzès, Gard

 
Rambling Rose in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Rambling Rose in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 

Bonus, have you ever seen a field of naturalized poppies blooming. It will take your breath away.

A Field of Poppies Blooming Outside of Uzès, Gard, Framce

 

Hoping your garden is happy, blooming, and giving you a smile!

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

Dreamy Dinner Chez Nous

Dreamy Dining Room

My husband and I rented a beautiful two bedroom apartment in the historic center of Uzès, South France. This apartment is within walking distance of everything, so convenient, so relaxing, and so inviting. If you ever get a chance to visit this charming town, plan on staying a few days.

We found this stunning apartment on AirBnB, called C’est la Vie, managed by Dominique and Christophe Cachat. She is American, and he is French. Dominique loves remodel, decorating projects, brocante finds, and it shows. They offer a number of properties to rent in the area which can accommodate a number of guests. Their website is www.uzesvacationrentals.com

Dreamy Kitchen

The kitchen all on one side, and all in white, has everything, even a dishwasher. I must admit we ate out most evenings, at wonderful tiny restaurants, some which were recommended, and some we stumbled across.

Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days in Uzès. We went to the Wednesday morning market which is bustling, located in the town center under beautiful canopy trees called Place aux Herbs. We had fun browsing, and bought some beautiful vibrant red-ribbed tomatoes, olive oil, black olives, Camargue (the wild marshland natural region south of Arles) honey, and more. From the cheesemongers we bought fresh goat cheese medallions and aged Tomme sheep cheese.

Rainbow Swiss Chard at Uzès Wednesday Market

Rainbow Swiss Chard at Uzès Wednesday Market

Engaging in conversation with the chatty sheep cheesemonger, Monsieur Cheesemonger gave us this tub of his whipped sheep ricotta cheese as a gift. He wanted us to try it. He suggested it could go with sweet or savory. He said, “Have it for breakfast with fruit and honey, or in the evening with olive oil and herbs on a baguette.” Wow!

A Gift of Whipped Cheese Like Ricotta

A Gift of Whipped Sheep Ricotta Cheese

I thought for a while, what could I make with this whipped sheep ricotta as a dinner. What came to me was a pasta dish inspired by Half Baked Harvest One Pot Recipes, a sort of loose combination of these two recipes,

One Pot Spinach and Sun-Dried Tomato Burrata Pasta and One Pot Sun-Dried Tomato Pasta with Whipped Ricotta. I had mades these recipes before, and was inspired to do something similar with the ingredients I had. I didn’t have sun-dried tomatoes, but I had wonderful fresh market tomatoes.

Washed Spinach Ready for Sauce

Fresh Spinach Washed, Dried and Cut Up

I prepared the lovely fresh spinach, rinsing, drying, and cutting it up. I added a little Basil Olive Oil to a large pot, and began warming it.

Finely chopped a shallot and sauteed it in the pan. I then added my beautiful market tomatoes ( I wished I had bought more), a couple of tablespoons of rich tomato paste, a tablespoon of balsamic vinegar, chopped black olives, sea salt, and freshly ground pepper. The tomatoes began to break down, and a nice sauce started.

Making the Tomato Sauce

Making Tomato Sauce with Black Olives

When I felt the tomato sauce was ready for the last ingredients, I added 8 ounces of shelled dry pasta, all of the spinach, and about 4 cups of water to the same pot, gently stirring on a medium low heat.

Adding Pasta, Water, and Spinach to the Sauce

Adding Pasta, Water, and Spinach to the Sauce

Ten minutes or so later, the pasta had absorbed all of the water, and also the beautiful tomato sauce. It was a nice, creamy texture. Since I thought this sheep ricotta cheese was so fresh, and so special, I used it as a topping on the pasta, being very generous with a big dollop, rather than mixing it in with the tomato pasta. I think that was a good idea, because I didn’t want to take away the fresh flavors of the sauce.

One Pot Pasta with Spinach and Whipped Sheep Ricotta

One Pot Tomato Pasta with Spinach and Whipped Sheep Ricotta

We had a baguette to serve with our pasta dish, so one could also put the whipped ricotta on the baguette too. My one pot pasta dish turned out beautifully. It was a wonderful relaxing evening in with a delicious dinner and a nice bottle of wine.

I didn’t even mention the wine. Since we are winemakers, we always like to explore the wines of the area when we travel. The wine in this area is very, very good, and quite reasonable. Many of these wines are made with the Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre grape varietals. We befriended the local savvy wine merchant, who suggested a few local bottles for us to try. Chin! Chin!

à Table, Chin Chin, et Bon Appétit

à Table, Chin Chin, et Bon Appétit!

Not to forget dessert. The French really have some amazing desserts and pastries to tempt you. Earlier in the day, we stopped at our favorite boulangeries/pâtisserie and picked up a Lemon Meringue Tart for dessert. Heaven. I hope you enjoyed, Dreamy Dinner Chez Nous!

Splitting a Lemon Meringue Tart for Dessert

Splitting a Lemon Meringue Tart for Dessert

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

A Taste for Europe
Backpacking Through Europe

Yes, It is Me, Backpacking Through Europe, Circa 1976

The last couple of years with more time home due to the pandemic, for me it has been a time of organizing, sorting out, and simplifying. I organized by years and events all of my photos. More recently I scanned and digitized more than a thousand slides from my life, travels, and photography living and traveling in Europe in my twenties.

In a grand way it was an eye-opening perspective which actually surprised me. I looked at photos that I distinctly remember taking. People, places, and scenes that I vividly remember—that I hadn’t seen in decades. Wonderful memories, and kind of a gentle reminder of who I am today and why. One forgets, as life has hiccups and setbacks, and gets more complicated with responsibilities and everyday busyness.

I lived with my dear family in Europe outside of Brussels, Belgium and attended the International School of Brussels for my 10th, 11th, and 12th high school years. I also took a year off during college years, and traveled non-stop, funding my own way with babysitting and “au pair” jobs. An english-speaking responsible babysitter was “gold” in the day.

I traveled extensively with my family, school, friends, boyfriend, and even solo. I was an adventurer, savvy and smart about travel, yet somewhat fearless. Of course, Europe and the world, for that matter was quite different 40-50 years ago.

It was a very golden time for me, and it is still the very core of who I am, and what I write about in this blog and create on my website. I knew from high school days I was coming to California, because it was the closest to living in the Mediterranean and still be in the United States.

I have cultivated, with my beloved husband, a French country lifestyle here in Mediterranean North San Diego County, one day at a time. It is who I am, resonating from my passion, at my very core. My dream has materialized right in front of my very eyes, far bigger and brighter than I could have ever imagined. I am very grateful and thankful each and every day. I am very grateful when I hear from you.

Stopping Along the German Rhine River

Stopping Along the Rhine River During A German “Au Pair” Job

My hope, whether you are a long time follower or relatively new, is that you will enjoy and be enlightened by my writing, recipes, tips, musings, and information shared. That you will be encouraged to continue to follow your dreams. That you will reach back to your past to acknowledge what caught your passion and touched you to the core. Perhaps you know very well, but it is always nice to reflect wholeheartedly once again.

I hope that you will be inspired to embrace a “Taste of French Country Living,” which is really a philosophy you can live wherever you are of beauty, every day celebrating “little things,” living in the present, mindfulness, quality over quantity, seasonal living, simplicity and so much more! Merci!

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie