Self-Photo at Roman Pont du Gard

This Roman aqueduct, Pont du Gard, has stood the test of time for more than 2,000 years and ticking. How utterly unbelievable. Although the Pont du Gard attracts over 1 million visitors a year, with nary a person in sight, we had to resort to a self-photo. The Pont du Guard was built to transport water across the Gardon River Valley, starting at a spring outside Uzes nearly 30 miles away, to the Roman city of Nimes. The Pont du Guard consists of three levels, the top one was where water was transported, and the first level actually was used as a road. It is estimated that it took 800-1,000 workers about three years to construct it. There was no mortar used in building this engineering masterpiece.

Roman Pont Julien, Near Bonnieux

Pont Julien is a small three-arched perfectly preserved Roman bridge, tucked away in the valley floor, just before the rising hilltop village of Bonnieux. It is also more than 2,000 years old, and up until 1995 was still used for traffic. Since then a new bridge has been constructed next to it. Pont Julien was named after the family of Julius Caesar. It was part of the ancient Roman trade road that linked the Alps to the Pyrenees, through the south of Gaul.

Secret Roman Ruins Outside of Aix-en-Provence

If you are intrigued by the Romans and their influence on Provence, create a "Romans in Provence" itinerary visiting Nimes, Arles, Vaison-la Romaine, Orange, Saint-Remy, to name a few places to get you started. Some Roman marvels are well known, and some are much less known. You simply happen upon them along your travels.

Spice Vendor, Lourmarin Friday Market, Provence

The photo above is of the lively Friday morning market in Lourmarin, also the village where famed English author, Peter Mayle, who wrote A Year in Provence and other novels, calls home.

One of my very favorite things to do when traveling is to frequent the local markets. As a matter of fact, I plan my itinerary around the flea markets, antique markets, fresh produce markets, bird markets, flower markets, etc. Markets are so colorful, and give you a real slice of local people, life, culture, and ambience. Markets are very lively and the vendors often very outgoing and playful types.

Markets are a way of life, especially in Provence, France. Locals shop frequently for fresh ingredients and produce, rather then once a week or every two weeks. The markets are held different days in different villages, and often specialize in certain items. Usually a guidebook, or articles on a particular market will divulge which "must have" items to seek out. Also, the month you are traveling may determine what is in season, and what to purchase. In Provence, cherries are a delectable treat in May, and lavender is in full bloom in July.

One of the "must have" items for me, are spices. I love to collect and buy spices whenever I travel. Each country has their cuisine and flavors, and what better way to relive your trip and experiences then making their local dishes and recipes, with local spices you have purchased there. Spices are easy to pack, and usually have a long shelf life. Spices are a small splurge, and a small effort to take home for memorable times long after your trip. They also make wonderful, reasonable gifts for loved ones, and especially for those who like to cook.

Produce Is Elevated To Art Form

In Provence, its wonderful markets are brimming with Provence cheese, black olive tapenades, lavender honey, flowers, olive oils, wonderful hand-made sausage, local crafts, colorful Provence linens, hand-made pottery, delightful breads, and seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables. When you are here, take advantage of these incredible foods and flavors and experience Provence. You must pick up some famous "Herbes de Provence" which usually consists of dried thyme, basil, savory, fennel, and lavender.

Provence outdoor markets are a treat for all of your senses with colors, aromas, tastes, and people-watching. Some of my favorite markets in Provence are the Tuesday: Vaison-la Romaine, Thursday: Nyons, Saturday: Apt, Sunday: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Plane Trees In Cucuron

One does not travel and explore Provence, especially if you are a gardener, without noticing its beautiful and awed plane trees. Plane trees are found everywhere in Provence. They line its country roads, often approaching and leaving a town or village. They are a focal point in many a family's courtyard, providing umbrella-like shade, and a spot to place an inviting outdoor table. They are often strategically planted in village centers and town squares. They can create a majestic and impressive grand boulevard style in their maturity and beautiful foliage.

Plane trees are the type of tree, in maturity, that create their own environment. They can reach 100 feet tall or more. Plane trees can be shaped and groomed into a variety of shapes, and provide welcome shade, especially in the warmer months of the year. Plane trees were planted prolifically, because they were a durable tree to population pollution, grew quickly, provided excellent shade, looked beautiful, required little water, and could be planted in poor soil.

Provence plane trees are a hybrid of the Asian and American sycamore trees. They were created, quite by accident out of Oxford, England in the 16th century. In the 19th century, plane trees were imported to Southern France, and planted extensively. Napoleon was responsible for extensive planting of plane trees throughout Southern France, for the purpose of keeping his marching army cool, under their great green canopies.

Tops of Plane Trees In Gigondas

Wouldn't it be wonderful to live in a region, like Provence, where plane trees are so prolific, so enduring, and so much a part of the charming character of the countryside. Plane trees are yet another reason, why the Provence countryside is so endearing.

Lower Rhone Valley and Town of Sablet

Provence is so large and diverse, it really is hard to describe it all. When traveling by car, one is often fooled by the distance and time it takes to get around. Although there are some highways, a lot of the roads, are secondary roads which meander and wind through the small villages, towns, and countryside. In fact, "the mode" of getting around Provence seems to support the relaxed tempo of life here.

Approaching the Medieval Village of Gordes

In the Luberon region of Provence, the large regional Luberon Park protects the countryside from random development and preserves its wonderful valley floors and rising Luberon foothill views.

The wind can be a factor in Provence. There are actually several winds which occur in this region. The mistral, probably the best known, originates in Siberia and barrels towards Provence through the Cote du Rhone valley, sometimes with violent force and sometimes for days. During a mistral wind, everyone has a favorite legendary "mistral story" to tell.

Overlooking The Village of Bonnieux

Many of the hillside villages are from medieval times, and some started as Roman beginnings, when that was the best way to defend yourself from invaders. Often well-preserved, and with commanding views, these villages have wonderful bistros, weekly markets, honey-stone churches to explore, village tradition, artisan crafts, and lively local culture to take in.

Provence is soothing and peaceful visually. How can you not be moved looking out at its verdant quilted patchwork countryside, gentle rising foothills, valley floors, and vast blue horizon, seemingly untouched for centuries. Incredibly, you can still experience fields of happy sunflowers, acres of scented lavender, flocks of sheep migrating, producing olive groves, and noteworthy vineyards, as part of normal everyday Provencal life.

Springtime in Provence, when these photos were taken, show how simply beautiful the countryside is. Much of the landscape in spring consists of budding vineyards, gnarled mature olive trees, towering cypress, blossoming fruit trees, climbing roses, blooming wisteria, and the dramatic red poppy in mass.

Have you been to Provence in the spring? What is your favorite memory?

Magic of Provence, Red Poppies Blooming in May

This fall 2023, I have the opportunity to travel to the south of France and Paris with a dear friend. While I am away, I thought it would be fun to revisit some of my previous Provence blog posts and photos for you as an armchair traveler. You can also follow me on Instagram to catch my fall adventures.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

I am not an expert on Provence, France, but I have studied, researched, and created two wonderful 2007 and 2008 spring itineraries that my husband, John, and I followed to experience the heart and soul of Provence. There is something so magical about Provence, it reaches to my very core. I snapped the above photo, roadside on an early Sunday morning, heading to the famous and fabulous L'lsle-sur-la-Sorgue antique market.

It is hard to pinpoint why Provence is so special. Is it the light that Van Gough would talk about and try and capture in his paintings? Is it the Roman influence of ancient engineering masterpieces, roads, and villages that survive to tell their story? Is it the legendary "mistral wind" that bellows through the famous Cote du Rhone valley? Is it the unspoiled rural countryside beauty? Is it the absolutely charming people full of rich tradition and culture? Is it the incredibly fresh and mouth-watering seasonal foods and time-proven wines? Is it the fact that you never know who you will run into at a cafe, or bump elbows with at an outdoor market? Ah, you will just have to go sometime and ponder these questions yourself. If you have been to Provence, and have some wonderful stories, please share.

Writing about a few things that makes Provence so magical a place is difficult. I could jot down a long detailed list, but prefer instead to share with you a few snapshots, that those fortunate to call Provence their home experience on a regular basis, if not daily.

Generally, my itineraries are "off the tourist beaten path", preferring to visit the lesser known special places, such as Edith Mezard's tiny linen and embroidery shop in Lumieres, the Abbaye St. Andre gardens across the river from the popular city, Avignon, or the little cheese shop, Lou Canesteou, in Vaison-la-Romaine, to name a few. Rick Steves' Provence and The French Riviera 2009 is a good guidebook for general information, tips, and proven itineraries for those wanting a starting point.

Some of my favorite books written about Provence, were the catalyst to visit this special part of France, and experience it first hand. If you can't get to Provence in the near future, perhaps you would like to begin by reading some of these wonderful books. For more information on these books, just "click" on their titles. A Good Year. A Pig in Provence: Good Food and Simple Pleasures in the South of France.A Year in Provence.Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France.

Please follow along with me for more snapshots of Provence.

Grilled Summer Squash with Roasted Pistachio Sauce

Are you up to your ears in summer squash from your garden, and need a recipe lifeline to save you? Well, here comes Grilled Summer Squash with Roasted Pistachio Sauce to the rescue (created by Rob Rubba at Oyster, Oyster restaurant in Washington, D. C., featured in the Food & Wine July 2023 issue). I have made pastas, muffins, cakes, gratins, salads, and more with my garden zucchini over the years, but this recipe is a welcome and delicious twist to reignite your taste buds for summer squash.

This recipe has a lot of flexibility. It calls for grilling the zucchini on the grill, but I have roasted the zucchini in my oven and the recipe is just as delicious. Simply prepare the zucchini according to the recipe. Roast in a 400 F. degree oven for 15-20 minutes until the squash is soft but not mushy. Turn your squash over once during your roasting time.

You also can tweak your pistachio sauce, for instance if you are not a fan of cilantro use basil or parsley. Please note: The pistachio sauce can be made a day ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. If thick, mix in a small amount of olive oil.

Grilled Summer Squash

With Roasted Pistachio Sauce

Lovingly Adapted from Rob Rubba, Food & Wine Magazine, July 2023

Ingredients

• 5 medium scallions, root ends trimmed

• 3 medium tomatillos (about 6 ounces), husks removed, tomatillos rinsed

• 2 medium serrano chiles, stemmed

• 8 garlic cloves (unpeeled), plus 1/4 teaspoon grated garlic, divided

• 1 cup unsalted dry-roasted pistachios, plus chopped pistachios, for garnish

• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, plus whole cilantro leaves, for garnish

• 2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

• 1 1/2 pounds medium-size mixed summer squash (about 3 squash), halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 3-inch pieces

• 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling

• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

• Flaky sea salt, for garnish

Directions

1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high just until smoking. Add scallions, tomatillos, chiles, and unpeeled garlic cloves; cook, flipping occasionally, until mixture is charred in spots and slightly softened, 4 to 6 minutes for scallions, 8 to 10 minutes for chiles and garlic, and 10 to 12 minutes for tomatillos. Transfer to a cutting board, and let cool for 5 minutes. Coarsely chop scallions, tomatillos, and chiles. Remove and discard garlic skins, and add garlic to scallion mixture; set mixture aside.

2. Pistachio sauce

   Process whole pistachios in a food processor until very finely chopped, about 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides of processor bowl after 15 seconds. Add charred scallion mixture, chopped cilantro, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Process until mostly smooth and creamy, about 1 minute and 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down bowl after 45 seconds. Transfer mixture to a small bowl, and press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the sauce. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use.

3. Preheat grill to high (450°F to 500°F). Toss together squash, 1 tablespoon oil, and remaining 11/4 teaspoons kosher salt in a large bowl. Place squash, cut sides down, on oiled grates; grill, uncovered, until deeply charred, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip squash, and grill just until squash is tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a small baking dish. Stir together lime juice, grated garlic, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a small bowl. Pour mixture over squash, and gently toss to combine; let marinate 15 minutes.

4. Spread 1 cup pistachio sauce on a large platter. Top with grilled squash, and spoon any remaining marinade in baking dish over squash. Garnish with chopped pistachios and cilantro leaves. Drizzle with additional oil, and garnish with flaky salt. Serve remaining pistachio sauce on the side, or reserve for another use.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

Last Days of August at Domaine de Manion

“Let us be grateful to the people who make us happy. They are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom.” —Marcel Proust*

That is the way I feel about all of you! I love sharing ideas, recipes, philosophy, tips, travel, styling, in other words, a “Taste of French Country Living” to live by, no matter where you are. A few pillars of this life is simplicity, awareness of living in the present, and embracing everyday simple richness.

I hope you all had a marvelous summer, full of excitement and everything you like to do with family and friends!

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

*Marcel Proust was a French author, literary critic, and essayist who is considered by critics and writers to be one of the most influential authors of the 20th century. He was born July 10, 1871, and died on November 18, 1922.

Fresh Blackberries and Santa Rosa Plums From the Garden

This time of year is heaven if you have berry bushes and fruit trees in your garden. Pretty as a painting, this fruit was begging to be made into a crisp, or as the French call, crumble. I chose a crisp recipe because blackberries and plums can be quite juicy, which is the best for a crisp.

In Ina Garten’s Barefoot in Paris cookbook I found her Plum Raspberry Crumble recipe and lovingly adapted, and substituted my fruit selection. Know your fruit, if you feel your fruit is ripe, but not real sweet, add an additional 1/3 cup sugar to your fruit mixture before pouring into your baking pan. If you like your fruit slightly tart, follow the recipe. Yum!

Ready Fruit Mixture in Baking Pan

Rolled Oats and Sliced Almond Topping Baked to Perfection

Serve This Crisp Warm with Generous Dollops of Vanilla Ice Cream

Taking a Summer Break. Enjoy Your Summer!

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie