Posts in Provence
Provence: Rural Countryside & Villages

Lower Rhone Valley and Town of Sablet

Provence is so large and diverse, it really is hard to describe it all. When traveling by car, one is often fooled by the distance and time it takes to get around. Although there are some highways, a lot of the roads, are secondary roads which meander and wind through the small villages, towns, and countryside. In fact, "the mode" of getting around Provence seems to support the relaxed tempo of life here.

Approaching the Medieval Village of Gordes

In the Luberon region of Provence, the large regional Luberon Park protects the countryside from random development and preserves its wonderful valley floors and rising Luberon foothill views.

The wind can be a factor in Provence. There are actually several winds which occur in this region. The mistral, probably the best known, originates in Siberia and barrels towards Provence through the Cote du Rhone valley, sometimes with violent force and sometimes for days. During a mistral wind, everyone has a favorite legendary "mistral story" to tell.

Overlooking The Village of Bonnieux

Many of the hillside villages are from medieval times, and some started as Roman beginnings, when that was the best way to defend yourself from invaders. Often well-preserved, and with commanding views, these villages have wonderful bistros, weekly markets, honey-stone churches to explore, village tradition, artisan crafts, and lively local culture to take in.

Provence is soothing and peaceful visually. How can you not be moved looking out at its verdant quilted patchwork countryside, gentle rising foothills, valley floors, and vast blue horizon, seemingly untouched for centuries. Incredibly, you can still experience fields of happy sunflowers, acres of scented lavender, flocks of sheep migrating, producing olive groves, and noteworthy vineyards, as part of normal everyday Provencal life.

Springtime in Provence, when these photos were taken, show how simply beautiful the countryside is. Much of the landscape in spring consists of budding vineyards, gnarled mature olive trees, towering cypress, blossoming fruit trees, climbing roses, blooming wisteria, and the dramatic red poppy in mass.

Have you been to Provence in the spring? What is your favorite memory?

"Postcards From Provence"

Magic of Provence, Red Poppies Blooming in May

This fall 2023, I have the opportunity to travel to the south of France and Paris with a dear friend. While I am away, I thought it would be fun to revisit some of my previous Provence blog posts and photos for you as an armchair traveler. You can also follow me on Instagram to catch my fall adventures.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

 

I am not an expert on Provence, France, but I have studied, researched, and created two wonderful 2007 and 2008 spring itineraries that my husband, John, and I followed to experience the heart and soul of Provence. There is something so magical about Provence, it reaches to my very core. I snapped the above photo, roadside on an early Sunday morning, heading to the famous and fabulous L'lsle-sur-la-Sorgue antique market.

It is hard to pinpoint why Provence is so special. Is it the light that Van Gough would talk about and try and capture in his paintings? Is it the Roman influence of ancient engineering masterpieces, roads, and villages that survive to tell their story? Is it the legendary "mistral wind" that bellows through the famous Cote du Rhone valley? Is it the unspoiled rural countryside beauty? Is it the absolutely charming people full of rich tradition and culture? Is it the incredibly fresh and mouth-watering seasonal foods and time-proven wines? Is it the fact that you never know who you will run into at a cafe, or bump elbows with at an outdoor market? Ah, you will just have to go sometime and ponder these questions yourself. If you have been to Provence, and have some wonderful stories, please share.

Writing about a few things that makes Provence so magical a place is difficult. I could jot down a long detailed list, but prefer instead to share with you a few snapshots, that those fortunate to call Provence their home experience on a regular basis, if not daily.

Generally, my itineraries are "off the tourist beaten path", preferring to visit the lesser known special places, such as Edith Mezard's tiny linen and embroidery shop in Lumieres, the Abbaye St. Andre gardens across the river from the popular city, Avignon, or the little cheese shop, Lou Canesteou, in Vaison-la-Romaine, to name a few. Rick Steves' Provence and The French Riviera 2009 is a good guidebook for general information, tips, and proven itineraries for those wanting a starting point.

Some of my favorite books written about Provence, were the catalyst to visit this special part of France, and experience it first hand. If you can't get to Provence in the near future, perhaps you would like to begin by reading some of these wonderful books. For more information on these books, just "click" on their titles. A Good Year. A Pig in Provence: Good Food and Simple Pleasures in the South of France.A Year in Provence.Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France.

Please follow along with me for more snapshots of Provence.

One Potato, Two Potato Salads

Potato and Green Bean Salad with Pastis Vinaigrette

I have made recently two new potato salad recipes, that are similar in a way, yet different. Both are great recipes to make spring into summer. Both use seasonal vegetables and finish with a toss of flavorful vinaigrettes while the salad ingredients are warm.

What makes them different is the type of potatoes used, red onion versus leeks, different herbs—parsley and thyme versus mint, and entirely different vinaigrettes. You can’t go wrong with either one.

The first recipe is from Elizabeth Bard’s book, Lunch in Paris, a fun and light romantic read about an American gal falling for a French man and his culture, while interjecting fabulous recipes along the way. Bard’s Picnic in Provence is also a fun read, and a sequel as her adventurous life continues in South France.

The second recipe is by Romel Bruno, recently published in The New York Times. This recipe is easy to make and I love the sherry vinegar and shallot flavor combination. This is a great side dish, but Bruno suggests adding hard-boiled eggs for a hearty vegetarian dinner.

Potato and Green Bean Salad

with Pastis VinAigrette

Lovingly Adapted from Elizabeth Bard’s Lunch in Paris

Recipe Note: Pastis is a refreshing summer apéritif, particularly loved in the South of France. I happen to have a bottle of it in my pantry. I believe you can find it at most liquor stores. This flavor adds a licorice kick. playing on the textures of crunchy beans and creamy potatoes. The original recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard, and I think it needs two.

Ingredients:

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon pastis or anisette

1/4 teaspoon coarse sea salt

1-2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil or more, up to 1/2 cup, to taste

1-1/2 pounds small red potatoes, halved or quartered

3/4 pound haricots verts, extra-thin French green beans, blanched

1 small red onion, minced

1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme (if you don’t have fresh, skip it)

1/2 cup tiny black niçoise olives

Directions:

Combine the first 7 ingredients for the vinaigrette in a glass jar or other airtight container. Shake vigorously to combine. You can make the vinaigrette several days in advance.

Place the potatoes in a pot of lightly salted cold water, bring to a boil, and cook them until tender (20 to 30 minutes).

Meanwhile, trim the beans and blanch them in lightly salted water for 3 to 4 minutes. They should remain bright green and retain their snap. Drain and rinse them under cold water; pat them dry with a paper towel.

Drain the potatoes. While they are still warm, placed them in a large bowl with the onion, parsley, thyme, olives, and green beans. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat. Leave in the fridge for an hour or so that the flavors have a chance to blend. This salad is best served at room temperature. Yields: 4-6

 
Roasted Sheet Pan Potato Salad

Roasting the Vegetables for Roasted Sheet Pan Potato Salad

Roasted Sheet Pan Potato Salad

Lovingly Adapted from Romel Bruno, Published in The New York Times


Ingredients For the Salad:

1-1/2 pounds baby potatoes, halved if large

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

Kosher salt and Black Pepper

1 bunch thick asparagus (about 1 pound), ends trimmed, stalks cut crosswise in thirds

1 large leek, white and green parts only, halved lengthwise then cut into 1/2-inch half-moons

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

4 hard-boiled eggs (optional), quartered


Ingredients for the Shallot Dressing:

1/3 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 small shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves


Directions:

Heat the oven to 425 F. degrees. Place the potatoes on a large sheet pan, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Toss to coat, then spread in an even layer and roast for 15 minutes.

In a medium bowl, toss asparagus and leek slices with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the paprika. Take the potatoes out of the oven and give them a stir. Spread the vegetables evenly on top of the potatoes. Cook until the vegetables are tender and browned in spots, 10 to 15 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting, make the dressing: Combine the the olive oil, vinegar, shallot, mustard, honey, and mint in a bowl, then whisk to combine.

When the vegetables are done, spoon the dressing over everything and let sit for about 5 minutes. Serve with hard-boiled eggs, if desired, and sprinkle with mint. Serves 4.

 

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie


Rose Mania in France
Smelling  the roses in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze

Stopping To Smell The Roses in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze, Provence, France, Photo by Debbie McGowan

The French love their roses, just like they love their dogs. May is a perfect month to catch France in full bloom and especially the stunning peaking roses that adorn their front homes, gardens, and stone walls. A On a recent trip I tried to capture some of these beautiful roses to share with you all.

I couldn’t identify many of them, but I did see quite a few of the traditional Eden, and Pink Eden. Enjoy these photos, and let them take you to France a moment!

Climbing Red Rose in Siran, Languedoc

The Village of Siran in Languedoc, France

 
Welcoming Roses Greet You at a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Welcoming Roses Greet You at a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
Matching Eden Roses Adorn House Front in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Matching Eden Roses Adorn the Front of a Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
A Fairy Tale Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

A Fairy Tale Village Home in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 
Never Mellow Yellow for a Village Home in Trausse, Languedoc

Never Mellow Yellow for a Village Home in Trausse, Languedoc

 
A Beauty in a Garden in Uzès

A Beauty in a Garden in Uzès, Gard

 
Rambling Rose in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

Rambling Rose in Caunes-Minervois, Languedoc

 

Bonus, have you ever seen a field of naturalized poppies blooming. It will take your breath away.

A Field of Poppies Blooming Outside of Uzès, Gard, Framce

 

Hoping your garden is happy, blooming, and giving you a smile!

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

Returning to Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard, March 2023

The Timeless Majestic Roman Pont du Gard

One day planning, and four days later hopping on a plane, my husband, John, and I were off to France in mid-March after nearly four years away. On a whim, and in the midst of the national French strike over pension, we traveled to South France and Paris in the off-season. It was one of our best trips to France yet, where everything seemed to flow effortlessly.

On a blustery day, edging towards sunset we stopped to take in the Pont du Gard once again. We had visited the aqueduct fourteen years ago on one of our first trips to Provence, on a much warmer spring day, approaching it from the other side of the river.

Taller than the Colosseum in Rome, the famed Roman aqueduct, Pont du Gard, in the Gard Department in South France always takes your breath away. Built over the Gardon River, and designed to transport water to the Roman city of Nimes 30 kilometres away, it has remained timeless.

I could go on and on about how incredible an engineering feat it was 2,000 years ago; that it is estimated that it took 800-1,000 workers to construct it over three years; that there was no mortar used amongst the stones; and that it has actually three distinct levels.

It is such a place of reverence and respect. So well preserved. So discreetly tucked away, and one with the landscape. So beautiful, words can hardly describe it. To further heighten the moment, we were nearly the only ones there, just us with our thoughts.

Seeing the Pont du Gard, I felt I was actually seeing time, not experiencing, but actually seeing time. It has such an ethereal aura about it, one can’t help but think of time in many different ways. Why is that 20 years can seem like a blink of an eye, your little nephew is now an adult approaching 30, or you don’t know how you can possibly know a special friend for over 50 years. Yet, in other situations, time seems to stop or become frozen, and you don’t know why. It is our perception of time in relation to our lives.

What also immediately came to me—I was literally seeing time before me, a span of my life in years, a gift, and the sturdy foundation was my values, unshakable and steadfast, always grounding me in life, and keeping me on course to follow my dreams and desires. Gazing at the Pont du Gard, it was an homage to a life well-lived, including the ups and downs, and much more to look forward to.

 

Past Related Post:
Provence: Roman Marvels Endure

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend….Bonnie

Fruit Bowl Statuary Flair
Fruit Bowl Statuary in Nuit-Saint Georges, Burgundy, France

Stone Fruit Bowl at Winery in Nuit-Saint Georges, Burgundy, France

When I speak about Mediterranean gardens and elements of a Mediterranean garden, I always mention aged stone elements, and specifically, the beauty and timelessness of stone fruit bowls. If you happen to see them in garden centers, antique shops, consignment shops, garage sales, or elsewhere—pick them up. You can’t go wrong with what they add to your garden.

Such an easy way to add a special flair to your garden, with no upkeep. In fact, in the photo above in Burgundy, an aged stone fruit bowl with lichen patina adds garden depth. These fruit bowls can weather the seasons with grace.

Usually sold in pairs, I see them single too. I have five throughout my garden, a pair welcoming you at my front gate, a pair in my courtyard, and a single petite fruit bowl as a table centerpiece. Stone fruit bowls come in different sizes and artistry, all are so beautiful. Somewhat neutral to your eye, yet rich in detail and texture. Stone fruit bowls can be heavy, so make sure they are stable and secure in your placement.

Fruit Bowl Statuary in Courtyard at Domaine de Manion

Pair of Stone Fruit Bowls in Courtyard at Domaine de Manion

I like it that stone fruit bowls almost tell a story by themselves. You can almost imagine a story of how they were found and placed in a garden, or make one up. Either way, they are in a garden for the long haul.

Centerpiece Stone Fruit Bowl On Garden Table

Stone Fruit Bowl as a Centerpiece In My Berry Room

Bellini Imports is one resource in Encinitas where I found my petite single fruit bowl. Actually, all of the shops in Westlake Design District in Encinitas, might be worth wandering through if you are looking for fruit bowl statuary.

Single Fruit Bowl Statuary in Garden at Domaine Dalmeran in Provence

Single Stone Fruit Bowl Graces the Garden at Domaine Dalmeran, St. Etienne-du-Grès, Provence

Related Past Posts:

Haute Halloween Couture

Creating A Bocce Ball Court

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie

French Kitchen Copper
Polished and Ready Jam Copper Pot

Polished and Ready Jam Copper Pot

Copper pots and pans are one of the essentials in a French Country Kitchen, not only for their glowing beauty, but fine functionality. Copper conducts heat very well, cooks food evenly, cools quickly, and will last forever when properly cared for. Most copper pots are tin-lined, and eventually this tin lining wears out with use, and the piece should be re-tinned by a retinning specialist. Be aware that tin melts at 450 F. degrees, so cooking in tin lined copper pots should be below that temperature. Confiture or jam making copper pots don’t need to be lined, since there’s enough sugar in jam to prevent the fruit acids from reacting with the metal. Always cook your fruit and sugar together, never cook fruit alone in a copper pot. Copper mixing bowls often aren’t lined as well, especially those intended for beating egg whites.

Some people like to keep the aged copper penny patina, and others like their copper bright and polished. It is a personal preference. Wrights Copper Cream is a good commercial copper cleaner. An old standby recipe to clean copper is mix 1/4 cup salt, 1/4 cup cup flour and enough white distilled vinegar to make a thick paste, use a soft cloth to rub the paste on the surface of the copper. Buff the copper pan until it shines. Rinse with warm water and dry thoroughly. Over time your piece will begin to tarnish, and you simply repeat the process again.

You can find new pieces online easily, or if you favor the hunt, search out wonderful pieces at French flea markets. It is usually the vintage, well-worn patina pieces with a history of their own, that are the best treasures to find. I can’t tell you how many copper jam pots I passed up over the years in France. I simply didn’t have immediate needs to be able to ship it home, it was generally took bulky to carry, and I didn’t want to risk damaging a piece checked in my baggage in my cross Atlantic travels.

The universe works in wonderful ways. Recently I was helping my Mom and Dad clean and organize their downstairs kitchenette. What was tucked away in one of the cabinets, was this beauty, a huge confiture copper pot—big enough to hold all of your fruit and sugar for making jam at one time. My Mom gave it to me, and I did get it home safely in my luggage. It is special to me for sentimental reasons, coming from my Mom and her kitchen in Europe, and now passed on to me. It was like finding a diamond in the rough, and fulfilling the dream to have one and display it in my home.

Copper Jam Pot Washed and Ready to Polish

Copper Jam Pot Washed and Ready to Polish

Some Related Copper Websites:

Mauviel

Williams Sonoma

Elsie Green

The Cooks Atelier

East Coast Retinning

Nicholas Retinning, (No Website), 4641 Telegraph Road, L.A., CA 90022, (tel) (323) 263-0028, Est. 1965.

Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend….Bonnie

Tomato Tune Up

Tomato Plants Growing Near Potting Shed

I missed the boat on sowing tomato seeds this past February. I did have the chance to round up all of my volunteer tomato seedlings coming up from compost use throughout the garden and transplanted them all in raised beds in my potager. Interestingly, most of these volunteer tomato seedlings are Roma tomatoes.

Green Thumb Nursery in San Marcos, California always has a nice selection of tomato and vegetable seedlings in six packs late spring into summer. I bought six packs of Celebrity, Early Girl, Cherry Red, and Cherokee Purple. Much more than I usually plant, but this year I really wanted to have an abundance of tomatoes.

Out of room in my potager, I planted the six pack seedlings in a row near my potting shed, using a curly rod for support that I initially saw in Provence, Tomato Staking Technique. I haven’t looked recently, but I got my stakes at Dixieline Lumber, and I have seen them at Home Depot. As my tomato plants grow I wrap them carefully around the stakes, and also use gardener’s green tape for more security. For irrigation, and with my sandy soil, I installed a versatile 1/4” soaker hose, you can find at Home Depot, which has worked well.

Back to Basics.

1) Fertilize your tomato plants when they begin to flower, and monthly or more thereafter. I use GroPower Plus fertilizer, available at local Grangetto’s.

2) Water your tomato plants to 1” deep, and as frequently needed, if you have sandy or clay soil. Do not let your plants dry out and wilt, and do not over water when summer hot spells hit.

3) Tomato plants thrive with heat and sun, at least 6 hours or more. If you are coastal, tomato plants don’t really like ocean breezes and benefit from a protected sunny spot around your home that shields your tomato plants, possibly incorporating a house wall or fence. My west hedge and macadamia trees give my row of tomato plants some shielding.

4) Keep your tomato plants cleaned up, off of the ground, and opened up for air circulation and sunlight.

5) Indeterminate tomato varieties have a vining tendency. They can produce fruit until the plant is killed by frost. They bloom, set fruit, and ripen fruit all at the same time. These varieties need staking, and attention to removing suckers off of their main stem.

6) Determine tomato varieties are also called bush type, and are compact in form. They stop growing when fruit sets on their top bud. Their crop ripens all at once within a two-week period, and then the plant dies off. Ideal for use in containers, and don’t require staking, or pinching, and trimming of suckers.

7) Heirloom tomatoes or open pollinated varieties are generally considered 50 years or older, produce a true seed every year, and are known for their outstanding tomato flavors.

8) Hybrid tomato varieties are created from seeds produced by different plants that were crossed with each other to obtain certain desired characteristics. These varieties will not produce a true seed, and sometimes these tomatoes are considered to be slightly inferior in flavor and texture.

Years ago I interviewed Del Mar landscape designer, Linda Chisari, who is well known for her vegetable and tomato growing finesse. Linda back then grew over 30 different tomato varieties each year and shared, “the ones that do best for me are varieties that tolerate cool, overcast summer weather.” Linda’s “short list” then, was Juliet and Enchantment for eating fresh or in sauces. Green Zebra for it’s slightly acidic flavor and appearance. Dona, a small yet delicious French variety. Carmello for fabulous taste and appearance. Celebrity is a large flavorful tomato, and great when our summers are warm. Sun Gold, an outstanding orange cherry tomato. Of course, San Marzano for making sauce.

Growing tomatoes is all about preferences. What tomatoes you like to grow, and for what culinary purposes. Where you live and grow your tomatoes, be it coastal or inland, in the ground or in containers. How you prefer to support your tomatoes in your garden. Tomatoes are one of summer’s best experiences, sun-ripened mouth watering homegrown tomatoes, you won’t want to miss out on! Thyme for tomatoes is just around the corner.

Please share your favorite tomato varieties, and how you like to grow them.

Bon Appétit and Bon Weekend….Bonnie